This century was marked by so many changes in fashion that it is one of the most complicated and difficult to follow.
Beginning with the reign of Louis XV (1710-1774), this century can be divided into two parts: 1) 1715-1750 and 2) 1750-1774.
Men’s fashions 1715-1750
Men wore jackets and trousers with a jerkin (jacket worn over the doublet with a slightly longer skirt) worn either loose or tightly buttoned and padded with pleats. The three corner hat was still in style, but the wig disappeared, replaced by rat’s tail haircuts. High heeled shoes went out of fashion.
Men’s fashions 1750-1774
Men’s fashions underwent a complete transformation after mid-century. Trousers reached to the ground and jackets became so narrow that they could not be buttoned. The sleeveless waistcoat was double breasted. Travel was more frequent, and as protection against foul weather encountered on the road, travelers wore high collared, many buttoned, greatcoats. Military dress became more comfortable and more uniform.
Women’s fashions l715-1750
During this period the society went through a phase of English influence called “Anglomanie” when Frenchwomen as well as Frenchmen did not hesitate to copy the English fashions. The most striking innovation during this period was the use of the “farthingale”(a padded roll worn around the hip), with “paniers” (panniers) or metal hoops. This fashion became so popular that even common women wore it to the market place. The width of these skirts was so vast that to pass through a doorway the wearer had either to go sideways or else to flatten to hoop by pressure on the flexible rings. The use of such device caused some embarrassing moments: since the ladies-in-waiting’s skirts could hide the queen, an empty seat had to be left on either side of the queen. Later skirts with farthingales gave way to skirts whose folds had to be held in the hand. The bodice which was fitted in the front but loose in the back produced the famous “Pli Watteau”. A great deal of material went into these dresses. Therefore light weight clothes were used to make these skirt.
Women’s fashions 1750-1774
There was during this period a return to simplicity. Farthingales were out of fashion although protocol required their continued use in court dress for special occasions. Trains were long and full, and hair styles so high that powder wigs called chignons had to be used again.
At the end of Louis XV’s reign, Marie Antoinette (1755-1793) felt finally free of her mother-in-law’s control (Marie Leszczynska, 1703-1768, daughter of the exiled King of Poland) and extravagance in fashion began. The queen came under the influence of her dressmaker, Mlle Bertin, who acquired so much power that she was nicknamed “minister of fashion”. The arrangement of her wardrobe has been documented officially:
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douze grands habits de cour
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(twelve heavily boned bodice, layered lace sleeve heavily trimmed skirt over a vast hoop and long train dresses)
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douze petites robes dites de fantasie
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(twelve informal dresses)
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douze robes riches sur panier pour le jeu ou le souper des petite appartements(twelve formal dresses for entertainment or supper)
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were ordered for her three times a year, and many more according to the need.
Dresses became larger than ever, sometimes as much as sixteen feet around. They were generally made of tulle, decorated with embroidery, precious stones, ribbons and flowers. There were three main styles:
1.Polish
The bodice led into the skirt, or with a complete division at the waist, the skirt being set with tiny pleats into the bodice. As this was an open robe, it was worn with a skirt, usually of different material to the robe. The desired effect was a tiny waist; this was achieved by the use of small pads, or by lifting up the overskirt and arranging it in three swags of material (Gallerie des Modes, 1778)
2.English
The fitted bodice was curved down at the center front and back with the fashionable width given by pads under the skirt.
3. Caraco
The skirt was much simpler with a very fitted jacket often made of linen or cotton, the material often being different from the skirt.
Women’s hair styles were so high that women had to kneel before their hairdresser and ride in their carriages in the same position. The most famous hair style was the model of a frigate called the “Belle Poule”, decorated with fruits and dolls, feathers and toys.
Male fashions were simpler: a straight-collared, open jacket and lap front trousers; a double-breasted, three collared cape called Carrick and a three-cornered hat which was often carried in the hand. Soldiers’ dress became more uniform: white trousers, a waistcoat and jacket, which was white in summer and black in winter. The color black appeared and was considered in the best of taste. Men still powdered their hair, but women went powderless, wearing high caps over low hair styles, a premonition of things to come.