Stephen P. Broker
The following thumbnail sketches cover the information I expect my students to review in their research on southern Spain. General information. This is a large region which stretches across the south of Spain. It is defined geographically by two east-west oriented mountain ranges, the Sierra Morena and the Sistema Penibetico, lying on either side of the Guadalquivir River Valley. A narrow plain of Mediterranean coastline, the Andalucian plain, is found here. Portions of Andalucia are very wet (Sierra de Grazalema, in the southwest), and portions are very dry (deserts of Almeria). Eight provinces and the British colony of Gibraltar (under British sovereignty) make up Andalucia. Five provinces (Granada, Malaga, Cadiz, Huelva, and Sevilla) are considered here.
Muslim invaders from North Africa first arrived in Spain in the 8th century. Muslim-occupied Spain was known as Al-Andalus, hence the later name Andalucia. The largest cities are Granada, Sevilla (Seville, the regional capital), and Cordoba, all of them formerly Muslim cities. The Reyes Catolicos (Catholic King Fernando and Queen Isabel) conquered Granada in 1492, shortly before Columbus set sail to the Americas. Following Columbus' return to Andalusia and subsequent voyages by him and others, the large city of Sevilla became extremely wealthy. Much of the subsequent trade with the New World took place through the ports of Sevilla and Cadiz.
Andalucia is known for bullfights, flamenco guitar music and dancing, fiestas and spectacles, foods such as gazpacho and tapas plates (and beverages such as sherry), white-washed hill towns, (many of the buildings are painted white), Mediterranean and Atlantic Ocean resorts (Costa del Sol), equestrian horses, castle ruins, and strong Moorish influence. The Romeria del Rocio is an annual festive pilgrimage occurring in Andalucia each year, the largest religious (or semi-religious) event in Europe. The pilgrimage, which is organized by nearly 100 brotherhoods (hermandades) and attracts nearly 1 million pilgrims, converges on the village of Rocio (near Donana National Park) during the 7th weekend after Easter (the Pentecost). Pilgrims travel by foot, on horseback, and in covered wagons, camping along the way. The modern tourist in southern Spain stays in hotels, or paradors. Flamenco, the music and dance art form, derives from Moorish and gypsy cultures. It includes guitar, castanets, and hand-clapping (palmas). Another recognizable feature of Andalucia is the extensive use of colorful azulejo tiles in building and patio construction.
Granada Province (and the city of Granada). Granada is located in the Darro River Valley, with the Sierra Nevada mountains in the background. The population of the city is approximately 250,000. Granada was the last stronghold of the Moorish kingdom in Spain. The most famous and beautiful example of Moorish architecture is the Alhambra fortress, positioned high on a hill in town. The name means pomegranate. It has been occupied at various times in the past by Iberian tribes (5th century B.C.), the Romans (3rd century B.C.), the Visigoths (following Roman rule), Muslims (conquering the city in 711 A.D.), and Christians. After the 13th century fall of Cordoba and Sevilla from Muslim rule, the Muslims remained in Spain only in Granada. Moorish domination of the city peaked in the 14th century, when trade, artistic and scientific contributions were made under the rule of Yousouf I and Mohammed V. In the late 1400s, the Moorish dynasty was in major decline, and the fortress palace, the Alhambra, became a place of retreat into a life of pleasure-seeking. An invasion of the Alhambra was begun by Christian armies in 1482. Castilla and Aragon became unified with the marriage of Ferdinand and Isabella. Christians again laid siege to Granada in 1491, and the Reyes Catolicos were successful in retaking Granada in 1492. Ferdinand and Isabella set up court in the Alhambra for several years thereafter. Jews were forced to convert to Catholicism or were expelled from Spain in 1492. Muslims were forced to convert to Catholicism in 1502 or they, too, were forced to leave Spain. Muslim converts became known as moriscos. By the second third of the 19th century, there was a restored recognition and appreciation of Granada's Islamic heritage. Tourism became a major industry by the end of the 19th century.
Malaga Province and Cadiz Province (cities and towns of Ronda; Arcos de la Frontera, Jerez de la Frontera, Sanlucar de Barrameda, Cadiz). The Spanish province of Malaga, located in southcentral Andalucia, is known for its Mediterranean resort beaches and its beautiful hill country. Its main city, Malaga, east of Gibraltar on the Costa del Sol, was established as a Phoenician trading post in the 8th century. The town of Ronda is due west of Malaga and about an hour north of the Costa del Sol coastline. The province of Cadiz lies west of Malaga, stretching from the Strait of Gibraltar to the eastern side of the Guadalquivir River and inland to the Sierra de Grazalema. Its main city is the Atlantic Ocean port of Cadiz, which is located on a prominent peninsula and today combines beautiful resort beaches with extremely heavy industrialization. Cadiz Province has a number of small towns, including Jerez de la Frontera and Sanlucar de Barrameda, two of the so-called sherry-making towns.
Ronda. Ronda is one of the largest of the white-washed towns. Its population is 35,000 - 40,000. Ronda is known for its old (14th century and 17th century) and new (18th century) bridges spanning the 100 meter deep gorge of the Rio Guadavin. Ronda was Muslim territory until 1485. It has the oldest bull ring in Spain, the Plaza de Toros, built in the 18th century. One can visit a bullfighting museum (Museo Taurino) here.
Arcos de la Frontera. Towns carrying the ending "de la Frontera" are those historically Christian towns which were on the front line in the efforts to recapture Spain from Muslims. Over a 200 year period, from the late 13th to the late 15th centuries, the Muslims were slowly pushed back into North Africa. The countryside surrounding Arcos de la Frontera, perhaps the most beautiful of the white towns of Andalucia, has sunflower and wheat fields, vineyards, and olive groves. Arcos is perched on a high promontory, and it retains a medieval street plan, winding and narrow. Some of its building-lined streets are barely able to accommodate automobiles. The most narrow streets in the old part of town can be driven in compact cars only, and side mirrors must be folded in so as not to scrape against the outer walls of buildings. On one street near the summit of this town, it is necessary for cars to do back and forth maneuvers in order to negotiate a hairpin turn. Pedestrians frequently have to step inside recesses when cars pass by. The two most significant churches historically are the Basilica Parroquia de Santa Maria, begun in the 15th century, and the Iglesia de San Pedro, a 15th century Gothic church with bell tower.
Cadiz. The population of this heavily industrialized and large seaport is 155,000. Cadiz was at its peak of grandeur in the 1700s, when it accounted for 75% of Spanish trade with the Americas. Cadiz was founded in 1100 B.C. by Phoenicians, who traded in Baltic amber and precious metals. Christopher Columbus set sail from Cadiz on his 2nd and 4th voyages to the New World. Cadiz' most notable landmark is the large, yellow-domed Cathedral, completed in 1838. Cadiz was a frontier of Christian held territory during the Reconquista, the 250 year period of warfare between Muslim and Christian rulers. Today, Europeans on holiday flock to Cadiz' beautiful Atlantic Ocean resort beaches.
Sanlucar de Barrameda. Columbus sailed from here in 1498 on his third voyage to the New World. Ferdinand Magellan's (Portuguese) 1519-1522 circumnavigation of the world began here. The circumnavigation was not completed by Magellan, who died in the Philippine Islands, but rather by the Basque pilot Sebastian Elcano.
Huelva Province (Huelva, El Rocio, Parque Nacional de Donana, Rio Tinto). The province of Huelva, westernmost of Andalucia's provinces, stretches from the west bank of the Guadalquivir River to the border with Portugal. It contains most of the Donana National Park. The beaches of Costa de la Luz are located here. Columbus first arrived in Huelva in 1485, after his failure to convince the Portuguese to support him in his search for a western passage to the East Indies. Columbus set sail from Huelva on August 3, 1492 on the first of four voyages to the New World. A number of historical sites in the vicinity of Huelva relating to the life of Columbus are visited annually by pilgrims. Most important of these are La Rabida (the 14th century Franciscan monastery where Columbus prayed before his departure), Palos de la Frontera (with its Iglesia de San Jorge, where Columbus and crew attended mass prior to their departure - here Columbus returned in March 1493 to give thanks for his safe return) and Moguer (where Columbus visited the 14th century Convento de Santa Clara numerous times). At Punto del Sebo there is a 34 meter statue to Columbus, the Monumento a Colon. A new attraction in Huelva is the Muelle de las Carabelas (Wharf of the Caravels), with full-scale reconstructions of Columbus' three ships, the Santa Maria, the Nina, and the Pinta. I first saw these ships in San Juan, Puerto Rico, in December 1991, where they had arrived after sailing across the Atlantic from Spain. They were in America for the 500th anniversary of Columbus' voyage to the New World.
Sevilla Province (Sevilla, Italica). Sevilla, the fourth largest city in Spain, has a population of 700,000. It is the leading city of Andalucia. Bullfighting and flamenco are important here. Sevilla is called the gateway to the New World, for it is from this area that Columbus sailed to the Americas. While its large harbor silted up several centuries ago, the Rio Guadalquivir which flows through Sevilla remains navigable to the Atlantic Ocean over a distance of more than 100 kilometers. Amerigo Vespucci, for whom America is named, sailed from the river harbor of Sevilla. Sevilla became a major cultural center through the artistic efforts of Velazquez, Murillo, and Zurbaran. The people of Sevilla have a custom of taking an early evening stroll, or paseo. The old Jewish Quarter, also called the Barrio de Santa Cruz, is a frequently visited part of Sevilla. Major monuments in the city are the gothic Cathedral (completed in 1507), La Giralda tower (constructed during the period 1184-1195 and considered Spain's most perfect Islamic building), and the Alcazar fortress palace (originally constructed in the early 10th century, added to in the 11th and 12th centuries). The present mudejar palace, the Palacio de Don Pedro, was built by Pedro I during the period 1364-1366. Its palace gardens approach those of the Alhambra in beauty. The Cathedral is the third largest in Europe, behind St. Peter's in the Vatican State and St. Paul's in London, and it is the largest Gothic church in Europe. Called the Catedral de Santa Maria de la Sede, it has the purported tomb of Christopher Columbus, whose body was transported here from Cuba in 1899. (As he died in Spain, it's unclear to me how his body got to Cuba.) The tomb consists of four crowned sepulcre-bearers representing the four Spanish cities of Castilla, Leon, Aragon, and Navarra. The cathedral has a huge main altarpiece. The Giralda Tower is attached to the cathedral. It was originally built as a Moorish minaret, constructed by Yousouf Yacoub al-Mansour, and it was modified later to become the Christian cathedral's bell tower. The Alcazar is a palace of Muslim design in which Al-Mutamid and Yousouf Yacoub were 12th century Muslim rulers. The Alcazar was expanded by Moorish workmen for the Christian King Pedro I. Fernando III El Santo (the Saint) recaptured Sevilla from the Moors in 1248. Sevilla remained a leading city for the next 200 years, although nearly half its population died during a major outbreak of the plague in 1649. A subsequent plague in 1600 killed off another large percentage of the population. The town has a number of plazas, or town squares. The Plaza de Espana was constructed in 1929 for an Iberian-American fair. It is constructed in a neo-Renaissance and neo-mudejar style. One of the most impressive churches in Sevilla is the Basilica Macarena (dedicated to the Virgen de la Macarena, or the Weeping Virgin). Holy Week processions are a major religious festival in Sevilla..
Italica. This is the first Roman town in Spain. It was founded in 206 B.C. as a retirement village for veterans of the Punic Wars. The Roman emperors Trajan and Hadrian were born here. Italica has been abandoned since the time of the Visigoths. In recent years it has become a significant archaeological site and tourist stop for travelers studying the Roman period of dominion in Spain. The partially reconstructed ruins consist of theater, amphitheater, and extensive use of mosaic tiles in homes and baths.
Classroom Activity - Slide Presentation on Spain, with emphasis on the province of Andalusia. (Slides were taken by me on my travels through Spain. Complete sets are on file at the Yale-New Haven Teachers Institute office. Consultation with one of the above-mentioned travel guides will help place the photos in context.)
A. Granada: tile scene of Granada (Plaza de Espana, Sevilla); Alhambra: panoramic view of the Alhambra and the Sierra Nevada mountains; general view of the Alhambra; the Alhambra from Paseo del Padre Manjon; Alhambra parador; (1) Royal Palace (Casa Real, or Palacio Nazaries): Serrallo (official residence of the sultan): detail of the façade; Hall of Ambassadors (Salon de Embajadores); Patio of the Myrtles, or Arrayanes Court (Patio de los Arrayanes); Court of the Lions (Patio de los Leones), columns, arcades, and fountain; Sala de los Abencerrajes, ceiling with stalactite vaulting (nobles of the Abencerraj family were murdered here); Patio of the Cypresses (Patio de los Cipreses); Lindaraja's belvedere (Mirador de Lindaraja, patio and fountain); Royal Baths (Banos Reales); Granada, from the Alhambra. (2) Gardens of the Partal (Jardines del Partal) and Tower of the Ladies (Torre de las Damas), terraces, walkways, and pools. (3) Generalife (Garden of the Architect) and the Summer Palace: Court of the Long Pond (Patio de la Acequia); Patio de la Sultana (Court of the Sultana); Jardines Altos (old, or upper gardens); Jardines Nuevos (new gardens). (4) Palace of Carlos V (Casa Real Nueva), circular courtyard with columns in two tiers. (5) Alcazaba: ramparts, 13th-14th centuries, Nasrid Dynasty; watchtower (Torre de la Vela). (6) Cathedral (Catedral), gothic/renaissance, 1521-1700s; exterior and interior views; main chapel (Capilla Mayor); Royal Chapel (Capilla Real); cathedral museum.
B. Ronda: El Tajo gorge and Rio Guadalevin; Puente Nuevo bridge; Iglesia de Santa Maria La Mayor; Plaza de Toros, bull ring and seating; bull fighting scenes; sculpture, matadors; surrounding countryside.
C. Arcos de la Frontera: views of the city and pastoral countryside; Basilica-Parroquia de Santa Maria; Iglesia de San Pedro; Rio Guadalete.
D. Sevilla: Palace fortress (Alcazar): Patio del Rey Don Pedro (mudejar palace); Hall of Ambassadors (Salon de Embajadores); Patio de las Munecas; gardens, Pavilion of Carlos V; Cathedral of Sevilla (Catedral), exterior and interior scenes - Patio de los Naranjos, royal chapel, organ, stained glass windows, Sacristia Mayor; Giralda Tower (La Giralda), view of Sevilla from Giralda Tower; Plaza de Espana; Basilica de la Macarena; flamenco scenes (Bailes Flamencos)
E. Cadiz: excavations of Roman theatre; yellow-domed Cathedral; Cadiz beach (Playa de la Caleta); castle (Castillo de Santa Catalina); central market (Mercado Central); equestrian statue of Simon Bolivar.
F. Huelva: (see Columbus and Donana National Park slides)
G. Italica (oldest Roman town in Spain): amphitheatre; statuary; series of mosaic tile floors
H. Christopher Columbus: Granada: Plaza de Isabel La Catolica, statue of Isabel and Columbus; Royal Chapel (Capilla Real); marble monuments to Fernando and Isabel; marble monuments to King Philip (Felipe El Hermoso) and Queen Juana (Juana La Loca); crypt with lead coffins. Sevilla: Tomb of Columbus, Catedral de Sevilla; monument to Isabel, near Alcazar gardens. Huelva and vicinity: tile scene of Columbus at Huelva with the caravel, from Plaza de Espana, Sevilla; monument to Columbus at Punta del Sebo (Monumento a Colon); La Rabida (14th century Franciscan monastery - exterior, courtyard, and chapel; Wharf of the Caravels (Muelle de las Carabelas) - Santa Maria, Nina, Pinta