The twentieth century brought constant change. Important influences on fashion included movies, television, World War II, youth, and the women's movement.
At the beginning of the century, women's garments became more tailored. The bustline continued to protrude at the waistline was still controlled by the corset. These facts as well as the forward stance introduced in the nineteenth century prompted the style known as the "S"-shape because the body resembled the letter "S". The invention of the automobile called for the right costume and the dustcoat was introduced. This coat was used to protect the women's garments form the dirt and dust of the road. Women also wore boots, goggles, and large hats with veils to cover their face.
The 1910s influence of early movie stars
As the 1910s approached, the hourglass figure was still in style, but the "S" shape had disappeared. The French designer Paul Poiret introduced the hobble skirt, named because it was so tight the wearer could not walk and had to hobble. After World War I, the hobble skirt disappeared. The 1920s produced the age of Jazz, the Charleston, and the flapper with her waist dropped tubular dress, long pearl neckline, and bobbed hair. Undergarments included camisoles, panties, teddies, and brassieres that flattened the figure for a more masculine look. Cosmetic and make were also being used.
When the depression hit in 1929, hemlines became longer. The unsure economic time spawned the harder-chief hemline. During this time, women could not afford to buy garments, so the relied heavily on home sewing.
1930s
The 1920s clingy, draped, long fashion saw the waistline rise and women sought a long thin look. Wide slacks, known as trousers, short above the knee were worn for sports. Bathing suits and evening wear were backless. Evening gowns were long fitting and cut on the bias, a style that actress Jean Harlow popularized. "Streamline" was the term for the decade and clingy dropped, long fashion was the style.
1940s
The 1940s were influenced by World War II. The occupation of France forced some of the great fashion houses to close temporarily. Women reflected a uniform look with padded shoulders, shorts skirts, and nipped-in waistlines. In 1942, the United States government passed law L-85. The last set the following standards for garment manufacturing: no patch pocket, two in hems, no cuffs on pants, three and one half yards of fabric per garment, no metal closings because they were needed for the war. After the war ended in 1947, designer houses were reopened and Dior introduced a style called the "New Look." The "New Look" had a natural shoulder, small waistline, and a longer, fuller skirt. Women happily accepted the "New Look" when the L-85 law was ended. This was this only time in history the hemline was literally changed overnight.
1950s
The 1950s brought about the sloppy bobby socks, sneakers, and the poodle skirt, a fun time for women's fashion. Many actresses set fashion trends. Marilyn Monroe and Jayne Mansfield brought attention to the full bustline with the help of the Merry widow, an undergarment that pulled in the waist and pushed up the bust. Audrey Hepburn made the undernourished look fashionable by pulling her hair back into a ponytail and wearing black leotards and ballet slippers.
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Dior introduced the A-line silhouette, known as the trapeze dress and the H-line dress, which was low-waisted. Ladies skirts were full and were supported by crinolines and hoops. Slacks, such as clamdiggers and pedal pushers, were used for sports wear.
Fashion for the youth in the mid 50s was influenced greatly by Elvis Presley, James Dean, and Martin Brando. Their influences was seen in the leather jackets, pompadour hairstyles, dungarees, and the popular white tee shirts. Young women's clothing was usually a two piece garment, a skirt and a sweater combination, and another popular outfit was a man's white shirt worn over a pair of cuffed jeans. Young children's clothes were inspired by television and movie stars such as Roy Rogers and Dale Evans, as well as Davy Crockett's coonskin cap. Teenagers also watched American Bandstand to see what their favorite dancers were wearing.
In menswear, the 50s were known as the "Man in the Gray Flannel Suit" era. This term derived form a book by Sloan Wilson. The younger men wore the Ivy league Oxford shirt, Oxford shoes, and narrow ties. The businessmen attire (uniform) was a gray slack cut suit with narrow lapels, striped tie, wing-tip shoes, and gray fedora hat
1960s
The 1960 was known as the pop or nod decade: coordinated costumed, miniskirts, and pantsuits for women. The strongest fashion innovator of the 60s was the first Lady Jacqueline Kennedy. Hey clean cut simple style was accepted and copied by women of all economic levels. The Jackie look consist of a two piece suit, or a chanel-style suit often (double-breasted) with a round neckline. Jackie also popularized the bouffant hairdo, the pillbox hat and large buttons. For the young women of the 60s an English designer named Mary Quant was the trend setter. Mary created the very popular miniskirt in 1962. The eye was on the legs and not the bosom. The popular mini skirt helped to do away with the garter belt, but pantyhose were developed to wear with the mini. The Beatles came to the United States in 1964 and the British influence invaded fashion as well as music. The art world was flooded with bright, bold prints, and optics including dots and stripes.
This modern art influenced the mod fashion look, was also known as the Carnaby Street look. This look was expressed by two famous British models Sean "the Shrimp" Shrimpton and Lesley "Twiggy" Hornesby. The fashionable go-go boots were introduced by Andre Couvreges, also a shocking touch to fashion was added by Rudi Gernreich's transparent blouses and topless bathing suits. In 1966, a French designer Yves Saint Laurent introduced the women's tailored pantsuit. The pantsuit was not accepted for all occasion therefore women were not allowed to wear them in some of the restaurants. In 1969, women were dealing with many hemlines. They were offered, the mini, the midi, and the maxi as a choice. Many women stuck with pantsuits and favor the mini skirts. The 1960s also saw the hippie look for both men and women. This look included jeans decorated with patches, paint, silver, studs, and embroidery, and a chambray work shirt that was decorated a well. Bras disappeared for a short time. New trend setter along with love beads were Rock stars including Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, and Jefferson Airplane. The trend in casual anti-established look. Men wore long hair with bright color clothing and the suit and tie went bye bye.
1970s
The 1970s introduced us to men's leisure, bold neckties, double-knit jacket, and pants flared at bottoms. Polyester went to the extreme in the leisure suit, a two piece suit for men. The suit consisted of slacks and a jacket a large collar and top stitching. A bright flared shirts was worn beneath the jacket. Some people did not care for the leisure suit at all. The tee shirt became popular for both men and women. White was abandoned in flavor of bright color with slogans printed on the front.
Women of the early 70s wore hot pants, a collaboration of mini skirts and the pantsuit. Jeans were still popular, but the new hip hugger style with the waistband on the hip bone was becoming more popular. The 70s accessories included the chunky platform shoes. The hot pants were the last breath of outlandish look of the 1960s. The romantic Edwardian look became fashionable in new long lengths. Millions of Gunne Sax dresses were sold as prom dresses as well as wedding dresses. A California designer by the name of Jessica McClintock introduced this look. Jeans were still popular, but another drastic change such as bleached spots embroidery and tie dyed jeans were also cut up in many styles.
In 1973, designer Diane Von Furstenbery popularized the Versatile jersey wrap dress. John T. Malloy set the standards of correct office attire for both sexes in his dress for success book. The professional look included classic suits for both male and females. The suits were often produced in the natural fibers and neutral colors. Women joining the work force made classic styles suits popular. The economic recession encouraged classic styles and women would be less likely to spend money would be less likely to spend money on fade fashion. The popularity of movies created popular looks.
Saturday Night Fever
spawned the disco look for both sexes.
Annie Hall
popularized the baggy look for women.
Star Wars
encouraged the wearing of capes and flat boots.
Grease
brought back the 50s look.