The nineteenth century began with the continuation of the French Revolution. The revolution caused a reorganization of society and a rise to the middle class, allowing all classes to dress similarly. During the revolution, France lost its position as head of the textile production allowing England to take over. However, on Napoleon's coronation as emperor, France regained its lead. Napoleon did not strive to make France the leading textile producer because of his love of fashion, but because of his love of fashion, the economy of France benefited.
Many changes took place in the fashion world during the nineteenth century. In 1840, Godey's/Lady's Book, the first fashion magazine, was published, simplifying the task of communicating fashion. In 1846, the sewing machine was invented forever changing the fashion industry. In 1800, the first ready-to-wear shops appeared in the United States. By the end of the century, most custom tailoring businesses had gone out of business.
The English displayed their fine cutting and tailoring techniques, beautiful fabrics, and sense of grooming during this century. The nineteenth century was called the age of dandies, or well dressed men, and their leader was George "Beau" Brummel. Although Brummel did not set fashion trends, he adapted them to his style. He led men's fashion form 1796 to 1816, introducing show polish, clean linen daily, and the starching of cravats. Men no longer wore knee breeches, pants which reached the ankles. Before 1815, men's pants were so tight, they were made of knit fabric to allow movement. Later, a fly or front closure was added. Shirts were no longer edged with lace, they were ruffled down the front and featured a high collar. A waistcoat, a forerunner to the vest, was worn over the shirt. Over the waistcoat, men wore double-breasted coats with tails. They wore their hair shorter and curled and sported sideburns that often extended to their chins. Men's accessories included gloves, watch fobs, and top hats.
As the century continued, the dandy flourished again. Men took on a feminine look. This look included a protruding chest, pinched waist (achieved with a corset), and rounded hips. Trousers followed the feminine trend with tight waistbands and delicate pleating at the waistline to give the hips a longer look. The tailcoat was worn in the evening. In daytime, it was replaced by the frock coat. The waistcoat was still very popular. The neckline became lowered and a shawl collar was added. The cravat was now tied in a flat bow around removable collars, that were invented by a blacksmith's wife who was tired of providing her husband with a clean shirt daily.
In mid century, an important fashion trend began with the matching of a man's coat, waistcoat, and trousers. These outfits were known as the ditto suits. By 1870, print shirts were introduced into men's wardrobes; polka dots and stripes became quite popular. The collar of the shirts turned over for comfort. This collar was known as the wing or gates ajar. Popular accessories of the time included fedoras, top hats, bowler, cloth and rubber shoes, neckties with collegiate stripes, gloves, and a walking stick. Sports became important in men's leisure time and specific garments were created to support the sports such as tennis, swimming, hunting, and mountain climbing. Edward VII introduced the wearing of creased pants; this detail is still popular today.
The Greek influence still dominated women's garments of the early nineteenth century. The waistline continued to be raised and controlled by a drawstring. The simplicity of the Greek style costumes gave attention to headdresses. Many forms were worn including encircled vines, berets, turbans, and straw hats in various designs and styles. The Greek influenced disappeared by 1820. Luxurious fabrics in bright colors became popular. Fullness was added to the garments with leg-of mutton sleeves and pleated or gathered skirts. The hats, known as a picture hat, became the fashion. The necklines continued in their horizontal lines until shoulders were bare. Sleeves and skirts continued to become fuller and waistlines were lowered, emphasizing the bell silhouette. Sleeves were supported by boning and the skirts were supported by crinoline.
With romance flourishing mid-century, women fainted easily, mainly due to hunger. It was considered distasteful for women to eat in public. So many went without food. The weight of garments along with the tight lacing of garments at the waist contributed to the fainting. By 1844, sleeves became straight and narrow necklines took on the shape of a V and hats became smaller. In the 1850s, Empress Eugenie, Napoleon II's wife, set many fashion trends with the help of her famous designer Charles Worth. Eugenie popularized the bolero jacket, the felt hat, wand Scottish tartans.
Mrs. Amelia Bloomer, editor of a feminist newspaper, stared the trend of bloomers, which were loose trouser gathers at the ankle. This style was popular with some, but opposed by some because it presented a masculine look. In 1869, the bustle reappeared, changing the female shape. The over skirt was slashed, pulled up, and attached at the bustle to expose the under skirt. The bustle became small during the last decade of the 1800s. The female figure began to resemble an hourglass through widening of the sleeves and tightening the corset at the waist. To maintain a small waist, many women had their lower ribs surgically removed. Artist Charles Dana Gibson immortalized the young fashion-conscious woman of this decade in his painting. She was known as the Gibson Girl.
