In the 1665 and 1666 England was inundated with both plagues and fires which took their minds off fashion. This allowed the French to gain prestige. France became the world's fashion leader under the rules of the "Sun King," Louis XIV. France became the center of textile production and fashion innovation. Those attending parties at Louis grand palace at Versailles determined the fashion trends by what they wore. Men's fashion changed very little at the beginning of the seventeenth century. Pumpkin breeches and venetian were still being worn. However, the ruff was replaced by a flat laced edged collar known as a whisk. Lace became an important addition to men's fashion. In general, men developed a feminine appearance, which was complemented by the long and wavy hairstyles that men popularized. As the century progressed, trouser were less stuffed and were more fitted, with lace at the knees. Shirts, which were cut fuller, became more visible. These shirts featured full long sleeves and were often trimmed with bows. Accessories for men included swords, spurs, capes, and gatore. The middle of the century saw the development of rhinegroves, better known as petticoats, breeches designed by Louis XIV's tailors. These breeches were very full, often resembling skirts. The breeches were feminine and elaborate sporting hundreds of yards of ribbon on a single pair. Louis XIV lost his hair from a severe illness and wigs became popular for men. Powdering wigs with talc became popular at the end of the century.
In the beginning of the seventeenth century, there was very little change in women's fashion. In 1620, women became disenchanted with the hoops and rolls. For the first time in a hundred years, fabric fell naturally from the waist to the hem. Women began to display color in their garments by slashing the front of their outer skirts and attaching it at the hips, revealing the underskirt. This fashion was named for Madame Fonlange, a mistress of Louis XIII, and was called the fonlange silhouette.
The ruff remained popular, the necklines became lower, hairstyles became massive, and hats were cocked to the side of the head to accommodate the hairstyles. A hat called the widow's peak was developed for mourning. The hat featured a deep point on the forehead and a long veil on the back of the cap. The term "widow's peak" is still used today to denote a natural hairline that comes to a point on the forehead. Beauty marks were applied to areas of the face to signify various personality traits. Other accessories used during the century included muffs, scarves, fans, masks, gloves, and eye patches.