In the fourteenth century, heraldry defined by Webster is the study of the coats of arms of old families was at its peak: Coats of Arms featured family histories were displayed on the men as well as on the livery of their horses. The most common costume of women at this time was the cotehardie (koht-ah-dee), a one piece dress with a well fitted bodice flared skirt and long, tight sleeves. A surcoat or sideless gown was worn over the cotehardie. The surcoat was identical of the men's cyclas. The church deemed the armholes as the "windows of hell," this shortening the life of this fashion.
In the fifteenth century, there emerged a great interest in costuming. Queens of various lands communicated about their costumes through courtdolls, known as fashion babies. These were dolls dressed exactly as the Queen, then sent to other Queens so they could see the costumes. In this century of extremes, women begin shaving their eyebrows and their hairline so no hair was visible up to the hennin (hat) Women would also apply leeches to the skin, which meant they would loose blood and look pale. The basic female garment was a robe. This was a short-waist bodice that flattened the bust, a deep square neckline, elaborate interchangeable sleeves, and a floor length gored skirt with a train. A long, full undergarment was worn under the robe. Following a new trend set by Queen Isabella of Castille, women wore slashes, creating a puffed effect. During this time, a tunic was discovered that was believed to belong to the Virgin Mary. The maternal look became fashionable and women of all ages wanted to look pregnant. Thus, a pregnancy pillow was stuffed with various materials and tied underneath the garments. Women also walked around with backs arched and stomachs protruding.
The men of this century were also eccentric. They wore a jerkin, a short skirted, sleeveless garment with deeply rounded armholes and dagged hem. Corsets were also worn underneath. Hosiery was an important part of a man's wardrobe. First, the hose were two separate pieces of fabric held up by garters attached to other garments. Later, a triangular piece known as the cod piece was used. Men began wearing very decorative and exaggerated cod pieces. They were stuffed with fabric and used as a purse to carry coins.
