The grand designs of the seventeenth century were abandoned in the eighteenth for lighter and more delicate colors and patterns. Interest in the men's fashion faded slowly because of the age of Louis XIV. However, new life was breathed into fashion after the death of Louis XIV. The cravat was replaced by the stock, a neckband that tied in front and had a frilly extension under the collar known as a jobot (zha-boh). A suit coat known as a redingote (red-inp-goht) was very popular. The fore runner of today's suit coat, it featured a fitted waist and flared skirt. As the century progressed, the coat became tight-length with a higher neckline with less fabric and lace at the neckline, cuffs, and skirt. Fur or braid were used as decorative touches. Shirts with narrow collars were often worn under the redingote. Wigs were no longer popular. Men brushed their hair back from the head and tied it at the nape or curled a few locks above the ears.
The French Revolution brought on outlandish fashions, reflecting the unrest of the times. The popular redingote became so tight that the buttons could no longer be fastened. Long tails were added to the back, a high turnover collar and wide lapel were popular, and button was added in a double-breasted style. Trousers were completely visible and ankle length.
The young man were known as Incroyables (an-Krwah-YAHBL), which means "incredible" and the young women as Merveilleuses (mehr-vay-YURZ) for "marvelous." Protesting the lifestyles of Louis XIV court the Incroyables wore exaggerated garments in the mockery of the king's court. Their garments were wrinkled to give them a slept-in look. Cravats were tied carelessly, over large lapped trousers too long and loose created a style known as culottes, the French word for pants. A short, tailless jacket known as the spencer jacket and popularized by Lord Spencer of England. Many stories surrounded these creations. One story states that Lord Spencer was thrown from a house ripping off the tails. Another story attributed to the design to the fact that Lord Spencer stood to close to a fire and the tails were burned off.
At the beginning of the eighteenth century, women of the French court dominated fashion. Louis XV's mistress, Madame de Pompadour, was a lover of the arts. She was faithful to the French way of dress, but added her own influence. She began the fashion of wearing bows on the stomacher at the elbow and of having frilled neckbands. She edged her neckline with a lace known as tatez-y (tah-tay-zee), which is French for "touch here." She combed her hair straight back from the brow, with a lift, thus, the pompadour hairstyle began. As the century continued, the bell silhouette became more horizontal; skirts were hooped again and necklines became wider. The hoops were no longer circular, but flat in the front and back.
The pannier (pahn-yair) was an undergarment that supported the skirts on the sides. It was tied to a woman's waist, creating the desired wide effect without the need for hoops. The eighteenth century was a time of femininity. Women's hairstyles were soft with curls falling to their shoulders. Live flowers were used as accessories. Garlands were placed at the hem lines, necklines, and around the hair. Women would sew small pockets inside their garments so that water could be carried to keep the flowers fresh. French painter Jean Antione Watteau (wah-tott) influenced the gowns of the French court through his paintings. He depicted women in the gowns with the full flowering trains falling from the blank shoulder lines, creating back interest in the garment's silhouette. This innovation became known as the Watteau neckline.
Under the influence of Marie Antionette, ladies hair again became high and powdered. Powder was applied with shakers and bellows. A flour paste was added to give whiteness to the powder. The peasants complained that the use of so much flour on the hair lessened their food supply. The extravagant hairstyles took many shapes including carriage, ships, garden scenes, people, or current events. Hygiene suffered for the sake of beauty. Head lice was common because the hairstyles would stay in place for weeks, but if the lice became too active, they would have to have the servants to slit the hair open and remove as many lice as possible and mend the slit.
At the end of the century, Pannier became smaller and finally disappeared, but was quickly replaced by a bustle, a padded or wire device that was worn over the wearer's posterior. Women also adopted the redingote and also spencer coat, which was originally made for men.